I'm reposting one of my most popular posts, in honor of shad season. This was written two years ago; I think that now it's not really advisable to eat shad roe due to declining populations. But everyone should taste it once...
Yesterday I made shad roe, which I'd never before eaten or
prepared. Trying to figure out how to deal with the thing -- which
looked like a bloody, red tongue
-- I checked my old standby but was
surprised that Larousse Gastronomique was silent on the subject (the
"shad" entry only focused on the flesh; the "roe" entry covered other
kinds of roe but not shad);
I guess this is because shad roe is an
American thing, really. Unsurprisingly, Jasper White
came through with a terrific recipe, beautifully written.
I buy Kenyon Mill
white cornmeal at Dean and Deluca. It's stone ground and makes a fabulous johnnycake.
The shad roe is available now from Fresh Direct. This is really an
easy recipe, about twenty minutes start to finish.
We drank hard cider with this, which was a delicious combo. I was
totally surprised by the taste of the shad roe. It was so filling and
rich -- sort of like liver -- but with the taste of the sea.
From Jasper White's Cooking from New England, a book that makes me nostalgic for a past that I did not have:
SHAD AND SHAD ROE
"When the shadbush is in bloom and the roe is fresh, the swamp
Yankees like to fix it with a plate of johnnycakes." So says Tim the
Miller of Gray's Mill in Adamsville, Rhode Island, and he is right.
The shad has made a considerable comeback, not only in numbers but also
in acceptance and popularity. This bony member of the herring family
is an ocean fish that like salmon spawns in the small estuaries of the
rivers it enters each spring. In the Connecticut shad cookout, an old
New England tradition, a firebox with applewood is used to slow-cook
the shad and its roe, imbuing them with a fine, smoky flavor.
Although fillet of shad is quite good when properly boned (almost
impossible to find) and prepared, I will concentrate on shad roe, which
is one of North America's truly great delicacies. Shad roe is usually
sold in sets or pairs that already have the outer membrane removed. If
you catch your own shad, remove this outer membrane carefully, so as
not to damage the thin inner membrane that protects the delicate eggs.
Always handle the roe sacs with the utmost care. Trim off the excess
membrane that holds the pair together and also remove any blood clots
or veins. Wash the roe very gently. When purchasing shad roe, look
for lobes that are in perfect condition, with no torn membrane or other
damage. The color of the roe will vary from yellowish red to deep
red. Color is not a quality factor, unless the roe is extremely over-
or under-ripened, and you will rarely see that at market. The key
factor is odor -- there should be none -- which is a sign of aging. As
with all fish and fish eggs, the fresher the better.
Shad roe does not take well to any type of intense heat. It
requires gentle cooking. If you wish to saute shad roe, you must
gently poach it first. It is too delicate to saute from the raw
state. You can . . . then season and dust the roe with flour before
slowly browning it in butter or bacon fat. Be careful of popping,
which can throw hot fat far enough to burn the cook.
Shad Roe Slowly Roasted in Butter
Over the years, I have tried just about every known method for
cooking shad roe. Still not completely happy, I invented my own
method, which pays heed to the most important elements in cooking shad
roe: slow cooking and basting. The trick is to find a saute pan that
is just barely big enough to hold the roe. For one pair weighing about
six ounces a six-inch pan with one-inch sides is perfect; for two pairs
of that size, a nine-inch pan is about right. The roe is roasted
slowly in this pan with enough sweet butter to almost cover the lobes.
This eliminates basting, and since the dish is started from the cold
state and uses a very gentle cooking, it also eliminates poaching.
When the roe is perfectly cooked, it is transferred to a warm plate to
rest for just a moment, while you prepare a brown butter from the
butter in the pan. I like a bit of chopped bacon, anchovies and
capers, but if you wish to enjoy the lovely nutty flavor of shad roe
unadulterated, simply omit these ingredients. Serve one piece of lobe
as an appetizer or two as a main course. I think the richness of this
dish, however, makes it more appropriate as a starter.
Serves four as an appetizer or two as an entree
(NOTE: I halved
this and thought it was perfect as a main dish for two. You can't
really halve the butter, though, because you need it to cover the roe.
Most of it gets thrown out anyway.)
2 pairs shad roe, about 6 oz each
salt and freshly ground black pepper
6-8 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped capers
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 anchovies, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped cooked bacon or ham
juice of 1/2 a lemon
8 slices of baguette, cut on the bias, toasted or grilled, or 8 johnnycakes (recipe here)
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Trim and clean the shad roe as
described above. Wash gently and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper
2.
Place a 9-inch saute pan on low to medium heat and melt 6 tablespoons
of the butter. Place the shad roe in the pan; if the butter is not
nearly covering the lobes, add a little more.
3. Place the pan in
the preheated oven. The cooking should take about 15 minutes, but you
should check in 10 or 12 minutes to be on the safe side. Squeeze the
roe in the thickest part to feel for firmness. If it is still soft,
cook a little longer.
4. When the roe is done, place on warm
plates. Pour off about half the butter (NOTE: if you are halving
recipe, you will need to pour off about three-quarters of the butter)
and place the pan back on the burner. On medium heat, cook the butter
until it begins to brown and develop a nutty aroma. Watch out for the
popping of a few eggs that may have fallen into the butter. When the
butter is well browned, quickly add the chopped capers, parsley,
anchovies, bacon or ham and lemon juice. Spoon the foamy butter over
the roe. Garnish with toast or johnnycakes and serve immediately.